Time to remove more stuff from the frame! We’re getting close! This time we’re taking off the rear swingarm, foot rests and rear sets (which includes the rear brake assembly). Swingarm First locate and remove the first swingarm nut from the right side of the bike. See circled portion of the image below: With the
With the handlebars removed, the next step is to remove the gauge cluster. We can also start removing other bits as well as we work our way towards a bare frame. Also on the hit list are the front fender and rear forks. Gauge Cluster Lets start with the gauge cluster. It’s held in place
This one should be short and sweet. We’re removing the handlebars and controls today. The handlebars are held in place by two large bolts that pass through rubber shock absorbers. By removing two cotter pins, two nuts, and the front brake line, the handlebars should pull free. First, remove the two cotter pins and nuts as
It’s been awhile since I’ve sat down to type up the progress on the bike. I’ve gotten so far ahead of myself that I’m scared without proper documentation I won’t be able to get this thing back together! So taking a break from the garage to write up some past work.
In this entry, I’ll be looking at removing the back-end, including the lights, rear fender, and rear tire. Last time we finished up with removing the main harness and battery box.
DISCLAIMER: This is going to be a lot of detailed tracing of the main harness. It’s probably interesting and very helpful to someone that needs to do the same or has a question about the process, but probably pretty monotonous for casual reading.
Last time I detailed (well, kind of) the removal of all the junctions that meet behind the headlamp. Actually, most of the details were left out, but I provided a diagram showing the junctions and each of the 6 places they could go (plus the Left and Right front turn signals). As a recap, here are the main bundles that come into the junction behind the headlamp:
The 75 RD250 has a hinged seat, under which you will find the battery, fill tube for the oil tank, fused lines and an assortment of other wiring. It’s held in place by two hinge bolts that should also have cotter pins installed. In my case, only one was the original bolt w/ cotter pin, the other was just a bolt and a couple of nuts. The mechanism that holds the seat in the open position is a small metal rod that is inserted into a slot on the rear portion of the frame. When opened, the large end of the rod falls into a valley in the slot of the frame, keeping it held in place. Once the hinge pins are removed, it’s easy enough to maneuver the locking mechanism out of the frame and lift the whole seat off.
RD250 Engine Removed
With the carbs, tanks and exhaust removed, the next big component to come out is the engine. This bike in particular has a small oil leak somewhere, and likely needs a new gasket. And the frame is in need of some TLC, so the engine needs to go.
Retaining Screw Location
Removing the exhaust system was high up on the list of to-do’s. The PO mentioned that the right baffle seemed to have an issue. I didn’t realize how big of an issue it was until I started taking things apart. I figured a good cleaning of carbon deposits would be in order, but it turned out to be oh so much more.
First things first, there is a retaining screw at the rear of each pipe that holds the baffle in. Removing each screw and washer lets you pull the baffle right out.
Functionally, this bike is in pretty decent shape. I was able to ride it home, but I wouldn’t trust it out and about in town for long. With the right cylinder prone to fouling its plug after its run for a bit, the first thing to do is inspect the carbs and the exhaust. We’ll cover the carbs first. Before we get started, I need to sing praises for good shop/service manuals. I’d still be scratching my head on a lot of things without these, so drop the $$ and save yourself the headache.
A must have!
I went to pick up my newest garage endeavor last Friday morning, a 1975 Yamaha RD250, destined to become a cafe racer. I was anxious as I made circles around the bike at the sellers house, trying to look and sound somewhat confident that I knew what I was talking about. A healthy dose of research got me up to speed pretty quickly the night before. The bike was in decent shape, but had enough wrong with it that it would need some TLC before it could be trusted as a “daily runner”. The seller had a garage full of interesting and rare mopeds that were higher on his project priority list than the RD, so he was looking to get back what he paid for it originally and be done with it.
A good bike with a few issues
